When Will Special Food Safety Benefit Common Folks？

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Food safety in China has become a widespread concern, affecting both the country’s agricultural industry and consumers. A dedicated Wikipedia page lists numerous food safety incidents that have come to light since the 2003 dairy scandal, with at least one major case reported each year. https://zh.wikipedia.org/zh-cn/中国大陆食品安全事件列表

These incidents include severe cases such as toxic baby formula, stinky tofu soaked in sewage and chemical dyes, and more recently, students finding rat heads in school meals or edible oil being transported in oil tankers used for coal.

In China, unlike in many democratic countries, media and individuals have limited rights to supervise the government freely. Under this paternalistic system, the media and individuals face restrictions in terms of press freedom, open criticism, and public oversight of food safety.

For instance, on July 2, 2024, a video published by Beijing News revealed a conversation between a journalist and a tanker driver. It was discovered that after transporting coal-based oil, the tanker was not cleaned before being loaded with soybean oil. After this video was released, the journalist’s personal Weibo account was quickly deactivated. Similarly, on June 1, 2023, a student from Jiangxi Industrial Vocational Technical College found what appeared to be a rodent’s head in his meal. Although initially the school claimed it was duck neck, public pressure eventually forced an admission that it was indeed a rat’s head.

In a 2011 article, Chinese commentator Qiao Zhifeng argued that the special supply (tegong) system has become the root cause of China’s chaotic food safety issues. The special supply system originated in the early Communist era, when work units (danwei) of state-owned enterprises grew their own food and distributed it based on rank. “The leaders wanted to make sure they had enough food and that it wasn’t poisoned,” he explained.

According to Private Life of Chairman Mao, Soviet advisors helped China establish a food procurement department under its security apparatus in the 1950s. This department ensured that food for high-ranking officials was carefully inspected. At the time, officials were divided into 25 different ranks, which determined both the quantity and quality of food they received. Jushan Farm, formerly known as Xiangshan Farm, was the first large-scale farm established for this purpose, spanning 600 acres. It was managed by the Central Police Bureau, and government cadres were required to labor on the farm for 20 days each year.

During the Great Leap Forward and the subsequent famine (1959–1961), food supply to urban residents was much better than that to rural populations, and officials received even more favorable treatment. As noted by Wei Junyi, a senior official, the government eventually introduced food supplements for cadres, allowing those of higher rank to receive better food, such as meat and eggs.

Despite the ongoing famine, Mao Zedong maintained particular culinary preferences, especially for dishes like pork cooked in lard, braised pork, and Wuchang fish. The army would sometimes airlift food from Hunan to Beijing to satisfy his cravings. Once, when Mao requested oranges out of season, a special farm began cultivating off-season vegetables and fruits, including bitter melon and seedless watermelon.

Mao Zedong was photographed reading the People’s Daily in Hangzhou in 1961. The image shows Mao with a noticeably corpulent body. — *Mao Zedong was photographed reading the* **People’s Daily** in **Hangzhou in 1961***. The image shows Mao with a noticeably corpulent body.*

The 34th Supply Department, also known as the 34th Special Supply Department, is part of the Chinese government’s special supply system. Established in 1956, its primary purpose is to provide food and daily necessities for high-ranking officials, specifically those at or above the vice-ministerial level. Even during the Great Famine, officials were able to purchase imported items like chocolate cakes from this department. The 34th Supply Department is also known for being among the first to be informed of major domestic and international events, including the 1972 visit of U.S. President Richard Nixon to China.

Today, the 34th Supply Department is still located at 85 South Third Ring West Road, Yuyuan Ying Subdistrict, Fengtai District, Beijing. It continues to serve high-ranking officials, ensuring a steady supply of exclusive and often imported goods.

*34th Special Supply Department in 1950s*

The special supply system continues to function today. The public’s concerns about food safety rarely penetrate the inner circle of the government, where officials enjoy access to secure, high-quality food. In essence, the special supply system is a privilege that highlights the broader issue of inequality in China’s food safety regime.